Tag: Cultural Tourism

Island Time Travel

Native Hawaiian wisdom, mainland capitalism, an LDS mission, and the birth of Pacific tourism. At the center, a banyan tree that has watched Hawaii transform for 120 years. This 1921 real photo postcard reveals the complexities of cultural exchange, migration, and travel over time.

In the photograph we are looking at today, the Moana Hotel rises like a palace from Waikiki Beach, its elegant wings stretching toward Diamond Head. A wooden pier extends into the Pacific. The building’s Victorian details hint at mainland American grandeur transplanted to the tropics. The “First Lady of Waikiki” opened as the territory’s first luxury resort, transforming a landscape once dotted with taro ponds and royal summer homes into the birthplace of Pacific tourism.

Built by wealthy landowner Walter Chamberlain Peacock and designed by architect Oliver G. Traphagen, the Moana opened on March 11, 1901, with 75 rooms featuring Hawaii’s first electric elevator and the unique amenity of private bathrooms. The first guests were a group of Shriners, who paid $1.50 per night—about $50 today—to experience what was then a very remote luxury destination.

Three years later, Jared Smith, Director of the Department of Agriculture Experiment Station, planted what seemed like a simple landscaping choice in the hotel’s courtyard: a young Indian banyan tree, nearly seven feet tall and about seven years old when planted. In the image, the tree is seventeen years old and already creating the shaded sanctuary that is the hotel’s heart even today.

As we flip the postcard over, another dimension is revealed. On November 29, 1921, a simple message sent to Mabel Moss in Longanoxie, Kansas with the usual greetings. But this isn’t a holiday for Aunt Olive. Her return address, “Route 4 – Box 46,” tells its own story of how communities were connecting between ancient and modern, sacred and commercial.

A Mormon Pioneer’s Island Home

Aunt Olive likely lived in Laie, thirty-five miles north of the Moana Hotel, where the Mormon Church had established its Pacific sanctuary. Her Route 4 address would have been served by one of the Rural Free Delivery routes radiating out from Honolulu—a detail that places her among the settlers who were building new communities beyond the city’s tourist corridor.

The Mormon settlement at Laie represented a unique form of cultural encounter. Beginning in 1865, when Church president Brigham Young received permission from King Kamehameha V to establish an agricultural colony, the Latter-Day Saints purchased 6,000 acres of traditional land—a pie-shaped division that provided for sustainable living. The Mormon community tried to honor Hawaiian land practices, giving each family a loi (water garden) to cultivate kalo (taro), the traditional sustenance crop.

The Hawaii Temple, dedicated in 1919, was the first Mormon temple outside continental North America. Built with crushed local lava and coral, its structure embodied the meeting of mainland pioneer culture and Pacific Island materials. Polynesian Saints from across the Pacific were gathering in Laie to receive temple ordinances, creating a multicultural religious community where Hawaiian, Samoan, Maori, and haole (white) families lived side by side.

The LDS approach to missionary work emphasizes learning local languages and customs—not merely as conversion strategy, but as theological principle. One of the early missionaries mastered Hawaiian so thoroughly that he produced the first non-English translation of the Book of Mormon in 1855. The missionaries married into Hawaiian families, adopted local foods and farming methods, and incorporated Polynesian cultural elements into their worship. Even as they openly sought converts, they also saw themselves as students of Hawaiian wisdom.

Paradise Shared

Captured in our image are at least a few conflicting visions of paradise. The Moana Hotel itself represents economic prosperity through the commodification of tropical beauty. Its guests paid premium rates to experience “the ultimate playground,” complete with hula shows and exotic imagery designed for mainland consumption. By the time of this photo, the hotel’s success had already inspired expansion; wings added in 1918 doubled its capacity.

However, the hotel was built where Hawaiian royalty had once gathered, in a place that embodied the Native Hawaiian principles, very different than Western concepts of land as commodity, beauty as product, and culture as entertainment. Look again at the Banyan tree. Where tourists saw scenery, Native Hawaiians understood kino lau—the gods manifested in every plant, animal, and natural feature. But, Hawaiian language had been banned in schools since 1896, and traditional practices were actively discouraged as territorial authorities promoted “Americanization.”

The Mormon community at Laie offered a third way that, despite its evangelical aims, required genuine cultural engagement. Unlike tourists who consumed Hawaiian imagery, or territorial officials who suppressed Hawaiian practices, Mormon missionaries made learning local ways a theological priority. They understood that successful evangelism required fluency not just in Hawaiian language, but in Hawaiian concepts of kinship, land, and spirituality.

This approach created communities that were simultaneously foreign settlements and island adaptations—places where pioneer traditions mixed with Polynesian extended family structures, where American church hymns were sung in native dialects, and where temple architecture incorporated local materials and building techniques.

Time Travel

The tensions that were at work in 1921 continue today, but so do the possibilities for meaningful cultural exchange. Today’s mālama Hawaii movement invites travelers to participate in coral restoration, native forest planting, and beach cleanups. Visitors can learn about places like Waimea Valley, where ancient cultural sites are preserved alongside environmental restoration. The principle of pono—righteous action—guides travelers to maintain respectful distances from endangered monk seals and sea turtles, to support Native Hawaiian-owned businesses, and to understand that they are guests in a living culture, not a theme park.

The island time we seek now isn’t the vacation fantasy of escape from responsibility, but the deeper rhythm of understanding our place within larger cycles of care and connection. When we travel with curiosity rather than conquest, we discover that the most valuable treasures are the stories and perspectives we gather. Over time, we come to know that every place on Earth is someone’s sacred ground.

In Hawaiian tradition, banyan trees serve as gathering places for spirits, bridges between the physical and spiritual worlds. Perhaps this ancient wisdom explains why the Moana Hotel’s banyan courtyard remains a place of peace amid Waikiki’s transformation—a living reminder that some forms of growth honor rather than diminish what came before.

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Art, Food, Nature, and History in Arizona’s Verde Valley

Arizona’s Verde Valley has inspired generations. Journey through this dramatic landscape where red cliffs greet green river valleys, and where an old mining railway now carries visitors through one of the Southwest’s most stunning canyons.

A striking watercolor dominates the front of a vintage postcard. The scene captures the essence of Arizona’s high desert: massive red rock canyon walls rise dramatically against a blue sky dotted with billowing clouds, while a silver passenger train glides across a trestle bridge below. The unknown artist’s watercolor brushwork renders the desert vegetation in soft greens, with prickly pear cactus dotting the foreground. The painting masterfully conveys both the monumental scale of the landscape and the delicate play of light across the rocky surfaces.

When the Verde Canyon Railroad winds through the high desert country of central Arizona, it follows ancient pathways. The Verde River carved this dramatic landscape over millennia, creating a riparian corridor that has attracted humans for thousands of years. Today’s passengers on the scenic railway see much the same view as the Sinagua people who built cliff dwellings here between 600 and 1400 CE, though the comfortable rail cars are a far cry from the precarious edges those early inhabitants deftly defied.

The river remains one of Arizona’s few perennial waterways, sustaining a complex ecosystem where desert meets riverbank. Towering cottonwoods and velvet ash trees create a canopy over the water, while sycamores and willows cluster along the banks. Native grape vines twist through the understory, and prickly pear cactus dot the rising canyon walls. This environment supports a rich variety of wildlife, from yellow-billed cuckoos and great blue herons to river otters and mule deer. Native fish species like the razorback sucker still navigate the waters their ancestors swam for millennia.

The human history of the valley reflects waves of settlement and industry. After the Sinagua, Yavapai and Apache peoples made their homes here. Spanish explorers gave the river its name – “verde” meaning green – marking the stark contrast between the river corridor and the surrounding desert. The late 1800s brought miners seeking copper, gold, and silver, transforming places like Jerome into boom towns. The railroad itself was built in 1912 to service the United Verde Copper Company’s mining operations, an engineering feat that mirrors our ancient ancestors.

Notable Arizona artists have interpreted this landscape. Ed Mell’s geometric, modernist approach emphasizes the monumental character of the canyon walls. Early pioneer Kate Cory combined artistic and ethnographic interests, documenting both landscape and culture during her years living among the Hopi. Merrill Mahaffey mastered the challenging medium of watercolor to capture the desert’s subtle light and atmosphere, teaching and inspiring so many along the way.

The artistic legacy of the region is inextricably linked to its unique quality of light. The clear, dry air creates what painters describe as crystalline clarity, especially during the “golden hours” of early morning and late afternoon. Artists employ various techniques to capture these effects: watercolorists leave areas of white paper untouched to suggest intense sunlight on rock faces, while building up transparent layers to show subtle color variations in shadowed canyon walls. The phrase ‘purple mountain majesties’ from Katharine Lee Bates’s “America the Beautiful” finds visual truth here, where the red rocks shift to deep purple at dawn and dusk, challenging artists to capture these dramatic transformations.

These artistic traditions remain vibrant today through institutions like the Sedona Arts Center, which hosts workshops, exhibitions, and the annual Sedona Plein Air Festival. These events draw artists from around the country to paint the red rock landscapes, continuing a legacy of artistic response to this unique environment.

The Verde Canyon Railroad itself represents a remarkable transformation from industrial resource to cultural attraction. When mining operations declined in the 1950s, the railroad continued operating for freight until the late 1980s. Its reinvention as a scenic railway in 1990 preserved both the industrial heritage and access to the canyon’s natural beauty, offering new generations a chance to experience this remarkable landscape where nature, history, and art converge.

In recent decades, the Verde Valley has emerged as a significant wine and food-producing region, adding another layer to its cultural landscape. The same mineral-rich soil that once yielded copper now nurtures vineyards, while ancient irrigation techniques inform modern water management practices. Local wineries have revived the area’s agricultural traditions, some of which reflect Spanish and Mexican heritage. The region’s restaurants increasingly reflect Native American heritage, too, combining indigenous ingredients with contemporary techniques. Native foods like prickly pear, mesquite, and local herbs appear on menus alongside wines produced from vineyards visible from the train’s windows.

Tourism in Arizona has evolved beyond simple sightseeing to embrace the complex tapestry of the region’s heritage. Visitors to the Verde Valley today might start their morning at an art gallery in Jerome, taste wines produced from hillside vineyards at lunch, and end their day watching the sunset paint the canyon walls from a vintage train car. This integration of historical preservation, artistic tradition, and culinary innovation exemplifies how the creative spirit that first drew people to these dramatic landscapes continues to evolve. The Verde Valley is home to each generation, who find new ways to interpret and celebrate the enduring connections between people and place.

Bridging Time: The Enduring Allure of Madison County’s Covered Bridges

Weathered wooden structures still stand in the middle of Iowa, a testament to both engineering ingenuity and the power of storytelling. The covered bridges of Madison County have become more than mere crossings over babbling creeks; they are portals to the past, muses for artists, and anchors for a community’s identity. As the crisp autumn air settles over the rolling hills in October, thousands of visitors gather to celebrate these iconic structures at the annual Covered Bridge Festival, a tradition that has endured for over half a century.

Our journey begins with a stack of old locally-printed postcards, each capturing a nearby rural scene frozen in faded grayscale tones. Photographed by Clee Crawford in the early 1950s, these images were made into postcards sometime after 1983 by Larry’s Photography and Joe Graham Printing in Winterset, Iowa. Vintage collectibles themselves, they offer a glimpse of a bygone era when the now-famous bridges were simply part of the rural fabric of Madison County.

The Roseman Bridge, built in 1883 by H.P. Jones, spans the Middle River nine miles southwest of Winterset. In the postcard, it rises from a sea of cornstalks, its wooden siding weathered by countless Iowa summers and winters. Known locally as “The Haunted Bridge,” it whispers of ghost stories told around farmhouse tables and hushed conversations between young lovers seeking shelter from prying eyes. Little did the bridge know that it would one day become a star, playing a pivotal role in a story that would captivate millions.

Moving northeast, we encounter the Cutler-Donahoe Bridge. Constructed in 1871, this structure originally crossed the North River. But like many of its counterparts, it found a new home as the winds of change swept through the county. In 1970, the same year the first Covered Bridge Festival was held, Cutler-Donahoe was carefully uprooted and transplanted to Winterset City Park. The postcard captures it in its original location, a sentinel standing guard over the river below, unaware of its future as a centerpiece of civic pride.

Our third postcard brings us to the Cedar Bridge, another creation of the prolific bridge-builder H.P. Jones. Erected in 1883 over Cedar Creek north of Winterset, it too would embark on a journey, moving to a new location in 1920. The image shows the bridge nestled in a picturesque rural setting, a dirt road winding its way to the entrance. What the postcard doesn’t reveal is the tumultuous future awaiting this particular bridge – a tale of destruction, rebirth, and the tenacity of a community unwilling to let go of its heritage.

The final postcard in our collection tells a bittersweet tale. The McBride Bridge, built in 1871, appears proud and sturdy in the photograph. Yet the caption reveals its fate: destroyed by fire on September 3, 1983. This loss, occurring on the first day of the 1983 Madison County Covered Bridge Festival, served as a stark reminder of the fragility of these historical treasures and the importance of preservation efforts.

The destruction of the McBride Bridge is, unfortunately, not an isolated incident. Across the United States, covered bridges have long been targets of arson and accidental fires. According to data compiled by Covered Spans of Yesteryear, over 670 covered bridges have been lost to fire nationwide since the early 19th century. In Iowa alone, at least seven covered bridges have succumbed to flames, with arson being a common cause.

The Cedar Bridge, captured so peacefully in our postcard, has had a particularly tumultuous recent history. In 2002, it fell victim to arson, a loss that shook the community to its core. Demonstrating remarkable resilience, the bridge was rebuilt, only to suffer the same fate in 2017. The determination of Madison County residents prevailed once again, and a newly reconstructed Cedar Bridge opened in 2019 – a testament to the enduring significance of these structures in the local psyche.

As we shuffle these postcards, admiring the craftsmanship of both the bridges and the photographers who captured them, we’re drawn into a narrative that extends far beyond the borders of Madison County. These structures, once utilitarian crossings designed to protect travelers and livestock from the elements, have become characters in a much larger story – one that intertwines literature, film, tourism, and the very identity of a region.

The transformation began in 1992 with the publication of Robert James Waller’s novel, The Bridges of Madison County. Waller, an Iowa native, wove a tale of passion and missed chances against the backdrop of Madison County’s rural landscape. The Roseman Bridge, our “Haunted Bridge,” took center stage as the site where the story’s star-crossed lovers, Francesca Johnson and Robert Kincaid, first meet.

Suddenly, these bridges were no longer just local landmarks; they became symbols of romance, of roads not taken, of the bittersweet choices that shape our lives. The novel struck a chord with readers across the globe, selling millions of copies and landing on bestseller lists for over three years. But the story’s impact was only beginning.

In 1995, Hollywood came calling. Clint Eastwood directed and starred alongside Meryl Streep in the film adaptation of Waller’s novel. Once again, the bridges of Madison County found themselves in the spotlight, this time on the silver screen. The Roseman Bridge, in particular, became a character in its own right, its weathered boards and rustic charm providing the perfect setting for the unfolding drama.

The film’s success catapulted Madison County into the national consciousness. Tourists began flocking to Winterset and the surrounding areas, eager to walk in the footsteps of Francesca and Robert, to stand on the bridges where their fictional love blossomed, and to capture a piece of that romance for themselves.

This intersection of literature, cinema, and place created a perfect opportunity for cultural tourism. The bridges, which had stood for over a century as quiet witnesses to the ebb and flow of rural life, now found themselves at the center of a phenomenon that would reshape the economy and identity of Madison County.

The Covered Bridge Festival, which had begun in 1970 as a celebration of local history and craftsmanship, took on new significance. It became not just a community gathering, but a pilgrimage site for fans of the book and film, as well as history buffs, architecture enthusiasts, and romantics from all walks of life. Since then, the town itself has changed and adapted to the ongoing recognition.

As we fast forward, the allure of the bridges shows no signs of waning. The 2024 Covered Bridge Festival, held October 12-13 this year, continues to draw thousands of visitors to Madison County. For $3 admission (or two tickets for $5, with children under 11 entering free), attendees can immerse themselves in a weekend that bridges past and present.

The festival grounds, centered around the Winterset town square, buzz with activity. Vendors line the streets, offering handcrafted goods and local culinary delights. Sounds of live music fill the air, kids laughing in the Kids’ Zone, and the excited chatter of visitors from near and far.

For many, the highlight of the festival is the guided tour of the covered bridges, conducted by the Winterset Rotary Club. As buses wind their way through the countryside, visitors are treated to not just the sight of these historic structures, but also to tales of their construction, their role in local lore, and their journey from practical crossings to cultural icons.

The festival isn’t just about looking back, however. It’s a living, breathing celebration that continues to evolve. The 2024 event features a parade, a car show that turns the area around the courthouse into a chrome-and-steel wonderland, and a variety of demonstrations showcasing the craftsmanship and ingenuity that built these bridges in the first place.

At the Madison County Historical Complex, visitors can delve deeper into the area’s rich past. Here, the bridges are placed in context, their stories interwoven with those of the farmers, merchants, and families who have called this corner of Iowa home for generations.

As the festival has grown, so too has the need to balance tourism with preservation. The story of the Cedar Bridge serves as a poignant reminder of the challenges faced in preserving these landmarks. As we admire their beauty and revel in their romantic associations, we must also reckon with their vulnerability. Each bridge that remains standing is a victory – over time, over the elements, and sometimes over human destructiveness.

As the sun sets on this year’s festival, casting long shadows through the covered bridges, visitors and locals alike are reminded of the unique alchemy that has occurred here. What began as a practical solution to a transportation need has become a cultural touchstone, an economic driver, and a source of identity for an entire region.

The bridges of Madison County are physical manifestations of the power of storytelling, the appeal of nostalgia, and the human desire to connect – not just from one riverbank to another, but across time, across mediums, and across cultures. They are examples of 19th-century engineering that teach us more every future decade they exist.

These bridges offer something increasingly rare: a moment of pause, a chance to step out of the rush of modern life and into a space where time moves a little slower. Whether you’re a fan of Waller’s novel, a history enthusiast, or simply someone in search of a quiet moment of reflection, the covered bridges of Madison County have something to offer.

As we look to the future, the challenge for Madison County will be to continue balancing preservation with progress, nostalgia with innovation. The Covered Bridge Festival, with its blend of historical celebration and contemporary community spirit, serves as a model for how this might be achieved.

For now, as October winds whisper through the wooden beams of the Roseman, Cutler-Donahoe, Cedar, and the other three surviving bridges, they carry with them the echoes of all who have passed through before – from 19th-century farmers to 20th-century film stars to the tourists and locals of today. Each footstep, each photograph, each stolen moment adds another layer to the rich tapestry of stories that these bridges hold.

Our postcards, now decades old themselves, serve as a reminder of the power of image and imagination to transform the ordinary into the extraordinary. From simple river crossings to symbols of undying love, from local landmarks to international attractions, the covered bridges of Madison County have undergone a journey as winding and wonderful as the roads that lead to them. In the hearts and minds of all who have encountered them – whether through postcards, novels, films, or in person – these bridges have built connections far stronger and more enduring than wood and nails could ever achieve.

As we tuck our postcards away and the festival-goers return home, we’re left with an appreciation for these humble structures that have become so much more. The covered bridges of Madison County remind us that with a little imagination, a touch of serendipity, and year-after-year of care, even the most unassuming places can become the stuff of legend.

In the end, perhaps that’s the true magic of Madison County’s covered bridges – their ability to transport us not just from one side of a river to another, but from our everyday lives into a world where love, history, and community intertwine.